Monday, April 26, 2010

Cm Colour Just Before Period

27. Bör blong!

The sauce is the height of culinary pleasure. Eat me, drink me, and already I'm back in Wonderland, the Fund, gravy and sauces. Today, there are pitched. The "hollandaise", the royal among them. French is the language of food! The name of deceptive. But once she splashed as Dutch butter to France when the local butter production during the First World War came to a halt. Since then she has from the conversion into this creamy buttery temptation to write in the name of their origin. Even if it 17th since the sauce Century and are initially sauce Isigny said. We are about to start stuttering starting asparagus season.


Wenige Grundzutaten - himmlischer Geschmack. Mit wenigen Handgriffen in den Himmel. Man benötigt nur ein wenig Fantasie, eine Prise Abenteuerlust und einen Spritzer Leichtsinn. Darüberhinaus benötigt man Eier, Schalotten, Essig und Weißwein, Salz, Pfeffer und Butter, Butter, Butter. Auf französisch: beurre. Die Butter wird geklärt. Die restlichen Zutaten in unterschiedlichen Reihenfolgen zusammen geführt. Eigelbe werden mit einer Reduktion aus Essig, Wasser, Pfeffer und Schalotten auf einem warmen Wasserbad schaumig gerührt bis die Masse anzieht. Mit geklärter Butter in feinem Strahl unter ständigem Schneebesenschwingen zu einer sämigen und himmlischen Verführung aufgeschlagen. 
Alles andere sind Variationen, die die "Holländische" nicht schlechter machen: 
sauce mousseline , Zitronensaft und geschlagene Sahne unterziehen. 
sauce maltaise , den Abrieb und Saft von Blutorangen unterrühren
sauce divine , Sherrywein mit verkochtem Trüffelfond und etwas Geflügelextrakt, sowie geschlagener Sahne zur Grundsauce geben - göttlich.
sauce dijonaise , französischen Senf und etwas geschlagene Sahne unterheben.
sauce béarnaise , Kerbel und vor allem gehackten Estragon hinzufügen. Die Reduktion entsprechend mit Weißweinessig und Estragon ansetzen.

Eine Reduktion? Wird immer dann eingesetzt, wenn würzende Zutaten nicht sichtbar werden dürfen. Oder haben Sie schon mal eine "Sauce hollandaise" mit Zwiebeln gegessen? Vermutlich nicht, obwohl sie drin sind. Für meine Reduktion verwende ich Säure aus Weißweinessig, die doppelte Menge Wasser, grob gemörserte schwarze Pfefferkörner und Schalotten, fein gewürfelt. Wie der Name schon sagt, wird das ganze reduziert, also eingekocht. Was bleibt sind innigste Aromen. Im Anschluss alles durch ein Sieb. Nur die Flüssigkeit wird nun zu den Eigelben gegeben. Der Rest bleibt wie gehabt. 

Die "Hollandaise" ist klassisch, aber die "Weiße Butter" besser. Von den Zutaten bleiben nur die Schalotten, der Wein und die Butter - und zwar reichlich. Abschmecken mit Salz und Pfeffer ist eh Usus. Schalotten gewürfelt zusammen mit reichlich Wein aufkochen und auf ein Minimum einkochen. Ich meine Minimum. In einem Grundrezept war von fünf Schalotten und einem viertel Liter Weißwein die Rede. Vom Wein bleibt nur die Acid, not a semi-dry election is wrong, because the addition of sugar is not provided. What remains is a slightly damp greasy film in the pot. Just enough to not recognize the onions. embezzled Now with a whisk plenty cold butter. The result is a velvety, seductive taste for sour butter sauce. Salt, pepper, ready. If you like, the whole is through a screen and opens the whole again. Voilà, le beurre blanc !

Monday, April 19, 2010

How Long Can Gonorrea Lay Dormant

26. Ein Ei ist ein Ei, ist ein Ei!

Let us return to base. Order to even come close to a star, it is essential to the raw food deal. Here include only the freshest and best ingredients. This is clear and has its price. The use of so-called "convenience food" is the star restaurant rather frowned upon. Just be of good quality and above all it must be fresh. This introduces me to the following questions: How fresh is fresh? Where can I get fresh, as fresh, a conventional discount providers at all? The deli department is not to fund the long term. Especially not when gastronomic cost considerations comes into play. Well, at this point I'm not a long time. Me, on the costing and cost accounting is worrying nevertheless useful to me because my escapades Thursday exaggerate short or long out of business.
The weather is great. The air is clear and the mood well. All signs point to spring. A perfect day for an experiment, an experiment with eggs. I'm going out with friends who consider themselves privately chickens in your garden. When I learned about my intention to try to compare reports the quality of eggs you are ready. "Then you get eggs but from today! Fresh is not really." says the lady of the house determined. When we press enter the enclosure they give me a broom in his hand. "The cock is a little aggressive." I get ten eggs laid on this day, and a sumptuous lunch, lest I fall off the flesh. The host pours. He likes to do. After a Schnäppschen coffee and I go back home.
Let us first note that an egg has a Halbarkeitszeit 28 days after laying. When buying eggs, I note that is written on the egg cartons not the laying date, but the expiration date and a second interesting date. Because even before the expiration date, there is a date on which only the eggs may be kept refrigerated. We recall - salmonella. Very ugly thing. Some years ago I myself had the dubious pleasure of making her acquaintance.
Back to my balls. The eggs from private keeping with today's laying date thus have an official shelf life until May 17. If it were up to the labeling, they are likely from the 12th May be stored refrigerated at a maximum of only 8 ° C. Since I want to make a quality comparison, I'll get me ten more free range eggs and ten free-range organic eggs. In Germany since 2008, the cages banned. The eggs are from einem Discounter, also eine für jeden zugängliche Quelle. Die frischesten Eier, die ich bekomme laufen am 06. Mai ab. Nun stelle ich mal die Frage in den Raum: Wer ist so fit im Kopfrechnen vom 06.Mai 28 Tage abziehen zu können? Richtig! Die frischesten Eier sind bereits elf Tage alt. Und das gilt für die Eier der  Bodenhaltungshühner gleichermaßen, wie für die Freilandhaltungshennen. Kurz zur Definition: bei der Freilandhaltung sollte ein Huhn mindestens vier Quadratmeter für sich beanspruchen dürfen. Ganz unumstritten ist die Freilandhaltung jedoch auch nicht. Denn hier sind wesentlich höhere Verluste durch Greifvögel ,  Kannibalismus und wieder auftretende, lang vergessene Krankheiten zu verzeichnen, was einen höheren Medikamenteneinsatz erfordert. Alle anderen Haltungsformen bieten den Hennen weniger bis gar keinen Platz. Und von artgerechter Haltung kann bei Käfighaltung schon gar nicht die Rede sein.  
In den nächsten Experimenten verarbeite ich stets zuerst das Ei aus der Bodenhaltung, dann das Ei aus der Freilandhaltung, gefolgt vom Ei aus dem privaten Hühnergehege. Im Vergleich schaue ich mir die Qualität a chicken egg from the ground attitude, which is already 7 days older.

decisive for the color of the yolk is the feed composition. Remarkably, the color difference of the egg from the bottom position is compared to the egg from a private entertainment. Since I received the eggs of friends I can rule out a feed additive that makes the egg bright yellow categorically. You must be a trained food expert to tell the difference between egg and egg number 1 number 3.
Comparing the raw whipped eggs, so we can see clearly the surface tension of the egg white and yolk. A clear sign of excellence. Older eggs are lacking in tension. In my attempt, however, loses the organic egg. The yolk bursts quickly and the protein is almost liquid. A problem that occurs only during the night to really to bear. Times noted in passing. I've done the fun and the eggs weighed. An egg yolk weight class M weighs 18 grams in weight class A yolk L just three grams more. If you add the egg whites with, so the total weight of just five grams higher than the egg weight class M.

What about now but with eggs after processing? For this I fry the eggs in a pan with the addition of a teaspoon of oil over medium heat. The fried egg. Here, the second egg, however, shows a behavior that I would have expected more from the egg of private entertainment. The first egg is rather flat in the pan and even the egg has lost quite clearly in tension. Although it is the same laying date, as the Ökoei added. It is not difficult to recognize that the egg from private keeping strong in egg yolk, egg white and in ausbrät. Possible that has too much heat here, the optical result is a little impaired.

But how all tastes now? The consistency of the first yolk is quite smooth. it certainly tastes after egg, it seems in comparison to m second or third egg, however, very aromatic flat. just the yolk of the third egg has a round and intense flavors. be salted light the differences much clearer. just the yolk of the third egg has a round and intense flavors. Slightly salted, the differences become much clearer. Gustatory each egg represents an increase dar. Unbelievable. By the way, an egg from floor management costs 13 € cents. A Ökoei 24 Euro cents. The egg from private keeping priceless. Looking at the aspects of animal welfare and furthermore the culinary, worth the higher price
in any case.
Nun die Herausforderung. Das Pochierte Ei.  Bereitet mir diese Zubereitungsart noch immer die meisten Kopfschmerzen, hat es doch dieses Mal bei allen drei Eiern auf Anhieb geklappt. Ich bin recht erstaunt, dass das erste Ei seine Form nach dem Eingießen in das leicht gesäuerte Kochwasser behalten hat. So musste ich fast gar nicht  nachhelfen das Eiweiß über den Dotter zu ziehen. Möglich, dass das Freilandei eventuell von einem etwas gestressten Huhn gelegt worden ist. Das eingegossene Ei verselbstständigt sich schnell und ich habe Mühe das Ganze beisammen zu halten.  Umso mehr überrascht mich das dritte Ei. Es bleibt nahezu von allein in Form und on the plate makes an almost perfect figure. I'm thrilled.

Because I always had my problems with the poaching of eggs, I start another trial. I give one of the older eggs seven days in the acetic acid water. Lo and behold, it goes its own way and makes me not want to hold together the joy. In the jargon this is called clear of "shit off".

Ich salze die pochierten Eier leicht, denn Salz ist der beste Geschmacksverstärker. Wieder gibt es einen klaren Sieger und vor allem gibt es zwischen den einzelnen Kategorieren ebenso klare Steigerungen. Ich liebe pochierte Eier. 
Es gibt eigentlich kaum einen Grund, der gegen das geringfügig teurere Ei spricht. Gründe, die für den Tierschutz sprechen lassen sich nicht von der Hand weisen. Geschmacklich liegt das Ei aus privater Haltung ebenfalls ganz klar vorn. Ein Ei muss frisch sein, so frisch wie possible.


I think now I go to bed, because all of the eggs I just still bad!

Saturday, April 17, 2010

How To Build A Dust Pan

25. Noch 48 Stunden!



The Easter weekend is just behind me. On Sunday my family was here that I call "coq au vin" with a surprise from the big pot. It should really only be a small informal lunch. In addition, the shares family my ambitions for exuberant Meals only conditionally. I would fly into the full program, they last probably overwhelmed . Whatever the case. The clean cut cock bathed in red wine for two days and without further ado, I decided on Sunday morning to expand the menu about this or other gear. should
First, I added a Waldpilzconsomé complete with insert, cheese and dessert. It was decorated, ironed and mounted. The blades were sharpened, rattling the pots and a comforting scent moved down the hall. After a off ski industrialized countries in Bavarian cream and two starts , to conjure a clever Creme Brulee, I decided the Bavarian waste as the basis for my raspberries to use on the biscuit and cream brulee was renamed in Creme Caramel. That could mean everything and nothing again.
At three were all sick and tired, and four out of the house. The Monday and raspberry cake belonged to me.
It's Tuesday. Only 48 hours! On Thursday I again open the doors to an invited round, which will be pampered by culinary me. My so-called restaurant Thursday. Fing's all quite harmless on a Thursday in winter by ich ein paar Freunde einlud mit mir ein paar Gerichte zu testen. An diesem Tag offenbarte ich auch mein Innerstes und gestand, ein Praktikum als Koch zu beginnen. Seit diesem Abend habe ich immer wieder für Publikum gekocht und dies auch immer an einem Donnerstag.

Nun sitze ich vor dem Rest der Himbeertorte und schreibe mein Menü für den kommenden Donnerstag. In Ermangelung nötigen Fachwissen s und eigener kreativer Ideen lasse ich mich von sämtlichen Kochbüchern die ich besitze inspirieren. Ein tricky, because the theme for the coming Thursday is the Heidschnucke. Neither standard works still selected chef books offer suggestions for the preparation of moorland sheep. This fits nothing. In a podcast I see the amount a star chef who cooked a deer back. It will take me. Hirsch and Heidschnucke surely fit into the same flavor scheme. I note once again that I did not know much about meat. I can only find a butcher who Heidschnucke offers at all. I have to admit the meat trade vendor that I have no idea of meat, but in the preparation 'm not completely inept. Even after this statement I notice that they lose interest me anything to sell. I just do not get what kinds of meat for my purposes überhauptin question. Bug? Heck? The club? the filet?. "So, filet costs determined as about fifty €!" is there anything cool from the other side of the counter. "Unless money is no object!" - Well, what shall I say? Now it's time to negotiate diplomatically and still not lose face. The only brand that I remember from my internship, nor is the filet and salmon. So I order salmon from the Heidschnucke. "He's still a bit more expensive than the filet!" 'Why that? " I think to myself! "How much?" "Wow € 57 can expect it already." "Okay." "How much do they need?" "Wow for six." In my head I reckon rapidly. Imputed I think there is 125 gr . per person. "I think 1.5 kg is sufficient." She thinks for a "Yes they will need it!" My computer error I notice three days later.
All recipes I copy out of my cookbooks and I do my shopping list for the big finish.
I begin with the preparations. It is being prepared, which can be easily prepared. Wild garlic pesto from the Jamie Oliver food processor, for example. I was once again miscalculated, because at the end of it I need only a few splashes.

The sorbet parfait for dessert and I have already stated on Sunday . It's been awesome. Only failed totally optically. The stuff in the forms to press ends in a spectacular graffiti.

The menu starts with the coming season asparagus. Asparagus pie a la Hubert Obeng. The Mis en place is.
cook the asparagus. The rings are formed. The bars cut. In the end, but nothing fits together. I should know but a day later.
For the potato mousse you need a very fine mashed potatoes floury potatoes. It is poured on it with hot milk and then passes it through a fine sieve. Then it is very fine.
is true but only if it fluffy even whipped cream is drawn underneath.
just figured someone here so no idea what happened.
In order to prevent neglect, there are a few strokes.
guests from say, guests say.



now operating on a new machine. Normally, I try so simple of how it works. In the case of the cotton candy machine, I was skeptical because I could find on other occasions, which can cause sticky sugar can do. Especially if it is not so readily loskochen with hot water.
Welcome, welcome. The guests, the guests.
In the meantime it's back to the kitchen. Just in case anyone asks: Yes, it is animal stressful, both cooking and a perfect host to be. What is missing here is a waitress. One good thing I'm now a photographer at my side. This is important in every case.
to Please take a seat.
The first wine, the first water. From the cubicle for a starter.

Up to that point everything is still running according to plan. Preparations are. This evening it is very out to be, to the point cook. However, I've never asparagus foam made with a siphon. Since I have not reckoned with the compressed air cylinder.

all to hell. I honestly never expected that I know the whole mess just blow up in your ears. The shrimp in the pan is almost finished. So do I. Re-timing, but in no time. Asparagus pie is not here anymore. The Remains to be pureed, and foamed on.

One good thing I'm a gourmet, so I serve it simply "little" on a large plate. Scampi with two Air
Sometimes less, containing just a few. Fortunately, no one has noticed it.

And so falls the evening continued. Without further major Incidents.

The main course
(here has slipped a cosmetic issue, I do not get to 's die corrected. )

The ice cream creation on cotton candy. As I said optically really failed. I think the Patisserie does not lie to me so.

am Once again I have come safely through this evening . The kitchen and the dining room look like bomb. Now really is the best part of the evening, because I can put my guests and it is drunk and discussed.

Here again, the entire menu.

Eine Air aus Heidschnuckenessenz auf Haselnussbrot an Apfelgelee
Scampi begleitet von Spargelschaum und klarer Jus der Heidschnucke.

Filet vom Red Snapper ausgebacken in Kürbiskerntempurateig auf Apfelkräutersalat garniert mit goldenen Apfelgeleewürfeln begleitet von einer Apfelmeerrettichcreme.

Lachse von der Heidschnucke im Herb crêpe accompanied on a potato mousseline caramelized oyster mushrooms with wild garlic pesto.


From the dessert, there's no picture of the reasons already stated.

I look forward to clearing up tomorrow

Thursday, April 1, 2010

Vitalsigns In Head Injury

Hasatru recognized as a religion! The only true

(Dph) As Dr. hc H. Caesar, spokesman for the German Hasatru movement, today announced before stunned members of the press in Kiel, Hasatru can sniff the status of officially recognized religious community claim. Registration as a public body would be examined already by the competent authorities, it said. This is surprising, but it has been the rabbit cult rather perceived as a marginal phenomenon of neo-paganism.
on demand in this regard was to Dr. Caesar that they had in recent years - traditionally operating underground and therefore of the public largely unnoticed - just more like, literally, "the rabbit".

Hasenheil, wir gratulieren!